Smoky will be offering his talents, techniques and secrets discovered over the last 150 years, or so. He will be to the point, pull no punches and if you suffer through the process, you will become a much better outdoor cook, turning out masterpiece meals for friends and family alike.

In this column, Smoky discussing some of the questions you must ask yourself in order to buy the grill of your dreams . . . . . take notes!

So, with no further adieu, we turn the mike to Smoky. You're on Smoky . . . . .

Thanks PC,

OUTDOOR COOKING WITH SMOKY HALE

Frequently, very frequently, I am asked, "Which is the best grill for me?" That is a decision that I cannot make for anyone but myself.

Choosing the right grill requires that you first determine your needs. The most important questions to be answered before choosing a grill are

1. What do you intend to do with it: broil, roast, barbecue, smoke?
2. How often do you expect to cook on the grill?
3. What is the greatest number of folk that you intend to feed from the grill?
4. How much are you willing to spend on a grill.

In grills, propane or butane (bottled) gas will usually produce more BTU's than natural (methane) gas in grills because propane is delivered at a higher pressure, and therefore more gas is available for burning at any given time. It also produces more BTU's per cubic foot of gas. Propane gas pressure is adjustable by a pressure regulator which normally provides gas at 6.3 ounces per square inch (11 inches of water column). Natural gas is normally delivered to households at 4 ounces per square inches (7 inches of water column) past the regulator --- corrected for elevation.

Propane's ( C3H8) boiling point, at atmospheric pressure, is -44o F. while butane's (C4H10) boiling point is 310 F. Natural (methane, CH4) gas boils at -260o F. Higher boiling point is why propane is more widely used as bottled gas than butane.

Without getting too deeply into physics, boiling points rise with pressure. Bottled gasses are under varying pressures, depending upon the quantity of gas in the tank and temperature. Therefore, while propane boils at -44O at atmospheric pressure, 14.7 pounds per square inch (psi), the boiling point of the liquid under 100 pounds of pressure per square inch will be much higher.

Thus, when the propane bottle is left outdoors and the ambient temperature gets down below the 30os, propane does not vaporize as well and your grill may not be able to produce as much heat. To remedy this, store the bottle in a heated area overnight, wrap it in a blanket to take it outdoors, and the gas will vaporize much better. An option is to wrap the gas bottle in a small electric blanket.

Propane gas is 1.5 times heavier than air, while natural gas is only 60% as heavy as air. Butane is 2 times as heavy as air. This means that propane or butane gas will flow to the lowest point available and, when it accumulates, presents an explosion hazard. Natural gas will dissipate in air, and can still be ignited, but it presents less of a hazard than propane or butane because it would be less concentrated.

Propane produces 2488 BTU's per cubic foot of vapor (gas) while methane produces 1000 BTU per cubic foot. The ideal air-to-gas ratio for combustion is 24 to 1 for propane and 10 to 1 for methane.

Gas fired stoves have been used in homes for more than a century. During that time, there has been little change in the technology. The entire operating system consists of a gas valve, an orifice (read small hole), a venturi ( a tube having a variable slotted section to draw in air) and a burner (a tube or other shape which has holes in it for the gas/air mixture to exit).

There is nothing complicated about the process — except in the mind of the manufacturers. As a class, manufacturers know less about what a grill is supposed to do than a fifth grade social studies class. Apparently their consuming interest is in manufacturing products which will satisfy the retailer and, thereby, generate sales and profits for their companies. You have only to read their brochures to discover that they are unburdened by the weight of obligations to the consumer to provide complete and accurate information. Follow their recommendations for operation and maintenance, but ignore their cooking hints and recipes.

A couple of gas grill manufacturers have incorporated the new ceramic burner technology which, although more expensive, is much more efficient in converting gas to usable, radiant heat. Such grills are capable of producing temperatures almost as high as their prices, but I am not convinced that either is justified for the backyard broiler. If any heat source can produce temperatures in the 7-800o range, it is entirely adequate for broiling a steak. I know of no other cooking use which requires a higher temperature. I suspect that the boasts of grill manufacturers and restauranteurs of 1500-1800o for broiling steaks most likely comes from hot air. Iron begins to soften at 1530o Fahrenheit.

If not enough oxygen is available for the additional fuel to fully burn, carbon soot and carbon monoxide - a poisonous gas - will be produced. If enough oxygen is available for the fuel to fully burn, the flame will be much higher than anticipated. In either case, the results can be dangerous. Grill orifices can safely be converted from one gas to another, even though some manufacturers deny it. They want to sell you a new grill. Some natural gas suppliers will tell you that it costs to much because they want to sell you a new grill. It is a simple, inexpensive task. If you need to convert, the first step is to talk with your local gas supplier. Replacement/conversion orifices can bought for most older grills. Modern gas stoves have an adjustable orifice which I have never seen on a gas grill.

Gas flames should always burn clear, bright blue with, at most, a small yellow tip. Yellow color in the flame indicates incomplete combustion and produces deadly carbon monoxide and other polluting, but less dangerous, compounds. Normally, the problem is caused by lack of sufficient oxygen getting to the point of combustion . Most often this can be corrected by a good cleaning. Refer to your owner's manual for cleaning - but not for cooking.

I recommend that the gas bottle be so located that, if there were a serious flame up or a regulator failure (a remote possibility) allowing uncontrolled gas flow, the bottle valve could be safely operated. On my bottle-fired cookers, I use a 3-4' hose to connect to the bottle.

Auto-ignition systems should have either a time limit or other shut off device which would prevent the continued release of unlit gas. Otherwise, a deficient igniter, which takes a minute or so to generate an ignition spark, may allow enough gas to accumulate to cause an explosion. If there is an igniter, the grill should also have a clear, convenient passage for lighting by other means, after the ignition system fails. Igniter systems on gas grills have about the same life span as a fruit fly.

Propane gas is heavier than air. Therefore any leakage along the supply line will accumulate in the lowest area and will explode when it encounters an ignition source.

Check all connections with a 50/50 solution of water and detergent. Spray or brush on all connections. Open the valve on the gas bottle or on the natural gas supply line but do not open the gas valve on the burner. Soap bubbles at any point will indicate a gas leak. If you cannot eliminate the leak by tightening, replace the part.

A gas grill should be designed and constructed so that the venturi, burners, their covers and valves should be easily available for cleaning, maintenance or replacement.

Insects and spiders like to build nests and webs in the venturi tube. If the flame on your burner begins to burn yellow, this is probably the cause. Take out the venturi - carefully- and clean out the venturi with a small bottle-type brush. A clogged venturi may allow unburned gas to escape and create an explosion hazard.

Sometimes the small holes in the burners become stopped up. If there is no flame at any hole, it is stopped up. Turn the grill off, allow the burner to cool, then remove it. Brush it well with a wire brush, then hold a water hose tightly to the entrance of the burner and flush it out. With a small wire awl or pin, open any clogged holes. Inspect for any split seams or burned out holes.

Periodically, remove the gas control knob on the grill and spray a lubricant, such as WD40 into the stem. Replace the knob and turn the valve on and off a few times. If the valve binds severely, it should be replaced.

If the grill does not have a grease trapping system, you will need to remove the burners periodically to clean out the grease before it causes what may be more than a minor conflagration. Ceramic briquettes and lava rocks, which collect grease, can be scrubbed or merely turned over for the flame to clean the greasy side.

Gas grill replacement parts are available from the manufacturer and several other sources. A well built cast aluminum gas grill can be kept in service for a lifetime. With an occasional touch up with high temperature tolerant paint, it can continue to look good, too.

More Great Information on Gas Grill Options with Photos!

Smoky Has A New Book The Great American Barbecue & Grilling Manual 416 pages of great information and wonderful recipes. @ The Barbecue Store

Enjoy.

© 1999 by Smoky Hale Smoky
C. Clark Hale
8168 Hwy 98 E.
McComb, MS 39648

Smoky's 5th basic position for really great barbecue'n.