According To Smoky

Welcome to According to Smoky. Here you will find the latest and greatest from C. Clark "Smoky" Hale notable 'baster', author, publisher, television star in both the barbecue and 'the real' world. And yes, he is a real person and not the webmaster.

Smoky will be offering his talents, techniques and secrets discovered over the last 150 years, or so. He will be to the point, pull no punches and if you suffer through the process, you will become a much better outdoor cook, turning out masterpiece meals for friends and family alike.

In this column, Smoky discussing live game ‘He Be Smokin’ . . . . . take notes!

So, with no further adieu, we turn the mike to Smoky. You're on Smoky . . . . .

Without getting too gamy, here’s the game plan. First, you get some game, then you clean it quickly and thoroughly. Then you have all sorts of options to score with.

There is a slight nip in the air, the squirrels are feasting in the oak and hickory trees — and the bird feeders— and people keep asking for more on cooking game. So, it’s time to cover the wilderness scene. While most of this refers to larger game animals, such as deer and elk, the same principles apply to smaller game and wild fowl.

Those who have tasted game, properly prepared, know that it is deliciously different— although it should not be so different as to be at all offensive to even the most delicate palate. Game animals, unlike their penned and plumped domestic cousins, have little fat interspersed in their muscles. This marbling, as it is called, is what makes beef tender enough to broil and chew without working up a sweat. On the other hand, that fat that the animal has worked to store up for winter has a rather distinctive flavor and, on most game, is removed before cooking or storing.

There are a couple of essential elements to serving good game. First, and foremost, is that the game must be properly treated after it is harvested. With deer, or any game animal, bleeding, gutting and cooling should be accomplished as rapidly as possible.

A gut shot deer, dragged out of the woods, loaded on the back, or the hood, of a pickup and flaunted around the territory for several hours before gutting and cleaning is unlikely to ever be fit to eat. It is my studied opinion, however, that the idiots who do this should be forced, at the point of a gun, if necessary, to cook and eat the whole carcass! Regardless of how big the rack, if you can’t make any shot but the gut shot, let it go! The competent hunter/sportsman will place his shot well or decline to fire.

Immediately after the hunter has made certain that the deer is actually dead, he should sever the jugular vein and elevate the hind quarter to make certain that the deer is bled. Naturally, if he has made a heart shot with a .30-06, bleeding will not be necessary.

Second, cut open the abdomen, remove the organs and intestines — and the trachea. This has two purposes. One, to remove any bacteria bearing organs and second, to open the cavity for faster cooling. The competent hunter will deposit the tongue, liver and heart in plastic bags which he has wisely brought. True gourmets will also clean and retain the stomach for tripe to use in Pepper Pot Stew or Menudo and the kidneys as well. At this time, cut out any blood clots and, if the stomach or intestines were penetrated, any meat tainted with fecal matter— for the whole path of the bullet. The cavity should be propped open to allow air to circulate. If there is snow, fill the cavity with it. (Note: Persons with sores or cuts should wear rubber gloves.)

Next step is to skin the animal. If the carcass is warm, the skin can be separated easily by running the hands under the hide, otherwise, a sharp knife is essential. Be extremely careful to get no more hairs on the carcass than is unavoidable. Once a hair is on the flesh, it seems to turn invisible and multiply. There will be hairs! Therefore, every time you handle the meat, afterwards, look for hairs. Hairs contain strong odors and will ruin the taste of meat all around.

Ideally, at this time, the next step would be to cover the carcass, cool it and transport it quickly to a meat locker where it could be aged, under proper conditions for 2-3 weeks. This makes the meat much more tender and enhances the taste. As a precaution, mark your carcass with indelible ink!!! You don’t want it switched for the one that has been hauled around on the pickup.

If you don’t have the opportunity to have the carcass aged, go ahead and cut it up. It is a good idea to immerse the primal cuts (large sections) in ice water to which salt has been added to chill them quickly. Meat to be frozen should be wrapped tightly in two individually sealed layers of butcher paper — expelling as much air as possible. Meat stored in plastic bags should have all the air expelled from the bag before sealing. Air oxidizes (reacts with) the meat which causes “freezer burns” and deteriorates the quality. Be sure to cool the meat down as much as possible before putting it into the freezer. Most home freezers cannot adequately handle such an overload and it will take much longer for the meat to freeze. This will cause larger ice crystals to form and the difference is noticeable.

If you don’t know how to cut up a food animal and really want to learn, call Merle “The Butcher” Ellis, at 415-383-6585, and see if he still has any copies of “Cutting Up in The Kitchen.” It is the best I have ever read on the subject and guaranteed to save you twice its price the next time you go on a meat buying trip.

While the meat is chilling in the ice is a good time to turn that tender, healthy liver into a delicious grilled treat.

Remove the liver/s from the ice water and trim the sinews and fat. As you remove the gall bladder, be sure not to burst it! Inspect for signs of damage or disease. Slice horizontally into strips about 1/4" thick and drop briefly into a mixture of milk, water and ice.

Mix 1 t. granulated onion, ½ t. granulated garlic, 1/4 t. ground bay leaf, 1 t. salt, ½ t. black pepper.

Fire up the grill for broiling — about 500 degrees and slice up some hearty bread.

Remove the slices from the ice water and blot dry. Sprinkle both sides with the seasoning mixture then rub well with an oil of your choice. Melted lard is my favorite.

When the grill is properly heated, throw the slices on the grill. Turn them as soon as they sear and remove when the second side sears. The sliced liver should be precisely done, but not overcooked. Without accompaniment, it makes a fine sandwich. Mustard, dill pickles and thinly sliced onions are options.

If liver is not on your menu, save out a rib chop, two if they are small, for each person for:

Prepare the grill for broiling at around 700 degrees — you need a little more heat for the chops.

Remove from the chiller, wipe dry and trim all extraneous fat. For 4 chops.

Bruise and simmer 6 juniper berries in 1/4 cup water for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, discard the berries and add ½ c. prepared mustard, ½ t. granulated garlic, ½ t. ground thyme, ½ t. salt ½ t. black pepper, 1/4 t. cayenne pepper. Place the chops in a non reactive dish and pour the mixture over them. Coat both sides well. Do not skimp, you want to maintain a good coating of mustard. Allow to come to room temperature or about 75 degrees.

Place carefully on the grill, turn when seared, about 3 minutes. Give the other side about three minutes then check for doneness. You want the center not more than 140 degrees. Don’t overcook! Remove to warm plates and enjoy with whatever accompaniments you have..

Next time Variations on the Game Plan with several more game recipes.

Smoky
C. Clark Hale
8168 Hwy 98 E.
McComb, MS 39648

Smoky's 5th basic position for really great barbecue'n.

'According to Smoky' is © by C. Clark Hale
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should be addresses to cchale@bellsouth.net