Smoky will be offering his talents, techniques and secrets discovered over the last 150 years, or so. He will be to the point, pull no punches and if you suffer through the process, you will become a much better outdoor cook, turning out masterpiece meals for friends and family alike.

In this column, Smoky looks to the skys and finds dinner. . . . . take notes!

So, with no further adieu, we turn the mike to Smoky. You're on Smoky . . . . .

There are only three good reasons for cooking outdoors.

1. To have more fun.
2. That particular food taste better when cooked outdoors.
3. It is easier to cook outdoors.

There may be some other reasons - your spouse won't let you fry the chitlins in the house; the gas/electricity is off, etc. But the good reasons are that it is easier, better and more fun.

When the wet winter winds whip in and whine at 30 knots, the particular food has to be a whole lot better when cooked outdoors to justify cranking up the grill. These are the times discretion and good planning are the warmer part of valor.

The real secret to maximum enjoyment from cooking on the grill, of course, is in letting the grill do its thing while we are occupied with activities more pleasant than hovering over the firebox. Some things, however, require more attention than others. Nasty weather is not the time to be barbequing chicken - unless you happen to get your jollies running in and out for 3 or four hours to baste. Personally, I get sort of picky about what I cook outdoors during excremental weather.

Foods that require very short time on the grill - such as steaks and burgers are a good choice. In the first place it is a callous disregard for a good steak to broil it in an oven. Secondly, when you confidently construct the foundation for a good bed of coals in three minutes flat, you can return to the toasty interior and give the coals thirty minutes to make their bed. Having your steaks properly warmed to room temperature before you drag them shivering out into the cold will reduce your broiling time to 3-5 minutes per side.

So you pop them on the 700 degree grill, close the lid and step back inside to check on the progress of the salad and baked potatoes. Another quick trip and a quick flip and back inside to make certain that the wine is breathing. If there is any doubt, be certain to apply a little mouth-to- mouth resuscitation. Nothing dampens the spirits of a good meal like an asphyxiated wine. Do not tarry however, lest you commit the crime of overcooking.

Properly planned and executed the total time at the grill should not be more than 10 chilly minutes.

The other type of goodies that go good on the grill in grungy weather is one that requires a long cooking time, but no attention between putting it on and taking it off. Roasts, whole poultry, meat loaves, etc., can be abandoned worse than a homely girl at a high school prom.

There are a couple of prerequisites, however. A grill of sufficient size to hold ample charcoal and wood for the cooking period is a must. The grill must also have adjustable an air intake that will allow controlled combustion over the long period. With adequate combustible material, temperature is dependant upon the amount of oxygen that the fire gets. So, a 20 pound pile of charcoal will produce no higher temperature than a 4 pound pile, given oxygen at the same rate. But it will burn 5 times as long.

The proper point of control is at the inlet rather than the outlet. Those who try to control temperature by closing up the smoke stack mostly cause over smoking from incomplete combustion and are likely to find a thin layer of soot covering the interior of the grill - and the food. Restricting the inflow of air will allow a constant rate of combustion, delivering a steady temperature over a long period.

Roast duck is a different delight this season of the year. I call this one -

COLD DUCK

1 duck - about 5 1/2 pounds

Trim excess fat, prick lower thighs and lower breast several times and score with a sharp knife. Salt and pepper inside and out.

Stuff the duck with 1/2 apple and 1/2 small onion, both sliced and the tops of two stalks of celery.

Baste several times, while the duck is coming to room temperature, with a mixture of 1/4 cup pepper vodka and 1/4 cup peach schnapps.

Fire up the grill to produce roasting temperature -350 degrees - for 2 1/2-3 hours. Remember that the cold outside temperature will require extra charcoal to produce the equivalent summertime BTUs. Citrus is the preferred wood for smoke flavoring this dish. Fruit woods are acceptable.

Place the duck, trussed if you are into bondage, on the grill over a pan with about 1/4 inch water. Close the grill and adjust the air intake. Check back in about 30 minutes to assure that the grill is maintaining the proper temperature. Baste while you are there. Then go play for about and hour and a half. Check and baste again.

Check for doneness at about 2 1/2 hours total cooking time. Temperature in the thickest part of the thigh should be 160 degrees and juices should run clear. When done, remove the duck. Pour the fat off the pan juices, deglaze with the 1/2 cup of the baste mixture and add 1/2 cup peach preserves. Blend and cook until thickened.

Keep sauce warm while you carve the duck. Serve the sauce on the side. Served with a light, slightly fruity wine. It should make you think of Spring.

Smoky Has A New Book The Great American Barbecue & Grilling Manual 416 pages of great information and wonderful recipes. @ The Barbecue Store

Enjoy.

© 1998 by Smoky Hale Smoky
C. Clark Hale
8168 Hwy 98 E.
McComb, MS 39648

Smoky's 5th basic position for really great barbecue'n.

'According to Smoky' is © by C. Clark Hale
who is solely responsible for its content. Comments
should be addresses to cchale@bellsouth.net