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If you don't make your own, find some good bread. The undercooked froth of bleached wheat flour posed as hamburger buns lacks flavor, nutrition and texture - unpalatable even to discerning bread mold. Suitable bread must, first of all, maintain its integrity while supporting a juicy hamburger. Bread should pleasure the eye like a plump Rubens nude and seduce the nose with promises; reveal sensual texture and give earthy sustenance. Choose any proper size, hefty rolls which tempt you or a loaf of hearty bread to be sliced into supporting roles. Later, I'll tell you how to make your own.

Choose greenery and condiments to complete the scene that your palate has envisioned. Iceberg lettuce has only crunch and pallid color; try a lettuce of substance, fresh spinach, cress or chard. Fresh, curly mustard leaves are a piquante surprise. Grated horseradish, mustard of choice, mayonnaise, sliced tomatoes and sweet onions, with perhaps grated cheese, sliced dill pickles and Greek peppers on the side, ought to do nicely. Remove catsup and "steak sauce" from the premises.

Now another flavoring opportunity presents itself. "To season or not to season?" is the question. Shoot them straight for a few times - no seasoning in the meat before broiling. ( I never salt before broiling.) We will cover some seasoning variations in the future. Shape the meat into firm patties to fit your bread and about 3/4" thick and of even thickness.

Allow to warm to room temperature. Fire up the grill. When all the trimmings are prepared, the grill should be right, with charcoal glowing red and the heat so intense that you cannot hold your hand within two inches of the grill for more than a couple of seconds. If you are cooking with gas, turn to the highest setting and keep the lid closed until ready. Gently place the meat on the grill. If the temperature is right, meat will seize to the grill. Do not move or turn the patties until each releases. As soon as they release, turn them. When the second side releases, remove and serve.

There should be no flame-up from the lean meat, but if flames appear, close the lid. The meat will be uncharred on the outside and medium to medium rare on the inside. Juicy and delicious. Cover with condiments and bread and experience a real hamburger. That's a hamburger! Maybe, not quite a Mona, but even Leonardo did preliminary sketches.